Fashion’s Neglect of Black Hair Exposed

The modeling industry, often criticized for its exclusivity, continues to present challenges for Black models, particularly concerning hair care. Even when Black models secure opportunities on major runways and in top editorial shoots, they frequently face microaggressions and neglect from backstage beauty teams who are unprepared or unwilling to work with textured hair. This systemic issue forces many Black models to arrive with their hair pre-styled, alter their natural texture, or even cut their hair to fit a narrow industry standard.

Models Speak Out Against Industry Neglect

Actor and model Nick Joesten, along with fashion model Angëër Amol, are bringing attention to this issue through a popular TikTok series. Joesten, with over a decade of experience, noted the common practice of asking darker-toned models to cut their hair short to be considered ‘bookable.’ “It was almost as if we needed a certain look to be considered ‘bookable,’” Joesten shared. “Once I realized I had a platform, I teamed up with my good friend and fellow model Angëër to start a conversation we felt was long overdue.”

Amol recounted her own experience: “When I first came into the industry, I had locs. When I signed to my agency, they told me I needed to cut my hair. I wasn’t comfortable with it—it took me five years to grow out my locs.” She further detailed a four-hour styling session for a Valentino show where stylists struggled to achieve a simple braided look with her microlocs, highlighting how textured hair is often viewed as a challenge rather than a versatile art form.

The Double Standard of Beauty

This “othering” of textured hair reveals itself in subtle and overt ways, often making Black models feel like an inconvenience. Many are expected to style their own hair while their non-Black counterparts receive full glam services. When their hair needs aren’t met as a standard practice, it sends a clear message that their beauty is not a priority. “It says that our hair in its natural state is not welcome and doesn’t fit the mold,” Joesten explained. “It tells aspiring Black models that they’ll need to change one of the most integral parts of themselves just to be accepted in this industry.”

The industry often imposes a double standard: once Black models adopt a certain look deemed “bookable,” they are expected to maintain it. Unlike non-Black models, whose hair transformations are often celebrated, Black models face skepticism or silence when they wish to change their style. Amol shared that after cutting her hair significantly shorter than her agents expected, she didn’t book a job for over a year and a half.

The Need for Education and Intention

This systemic issue points to a glaring lack of Black hairstylists and stylists adequately trained in textured hair care within the industry. Joesten notes, “Over the last ten years, I can count on one hand how many Black hairstylists I’ve worked with. The biggest issue is that Eurocentric hair is still treated as the default factory setting. So many stylists haven’t been taught how to work with textured hair because they’ve never had to.”

While talented Black hairstylists like Naeemah LaFond, Jawara, Vernon François, and Ursula Stephen are elevating textured hair, their presence should be the norm, not the exception. The industry needs to prioritize education on textured hair as a baseline standard. Until then, Black models are unfairly pressured to compromise their identity, comfort, or hair for career advancement. “Textured hair isn’t difficult. It’s just intentionally misunderstood,” Amol stated. “If a stylist thinks textured hair is difficult, then they’re just being lazy in their artistry.”

Meaningful change, according to Joesten, involves “Black people being included in all aspects of the industry—From stylists understanding the texture of our hair, to agents and brands actively advocating for us. We need a seat at the table—not just a foot in the door.”