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Tag: Fashion Industry

  • Hermès Appoints First Black Woman to Lead Menswear

    In a groundbreaking move for the luxury fashion industry, Hermès has appointed Jamaican-British designer Grace Wales Bonner as the new Creative Director for its menswear line. This historic appointment marks the first time a Black woman will lead design at any major fashion house, signifying a monumental step forward for diversity and representation in high fashion.

    A Visionary Takes the Helm at Hermès

    Wales Bonner, 35, who hails from London, expressed her deep honor and excitement about the new role. “It is a dream realized to embark on this new chapter, following in a lineage of inspired craftspeople and designers,” she stated. She extended her gratitude to Pierre-Alexis Dumas and Axel Dumas for the opportunity to bring her unique vision to the esteemed French house.

    Her eponymous menswear line, launched in 2014, has garnered significant acclaim for its “soulful tailoring” and its distinctive blend of European heritage with an Afro-Atlantic spirit. Wales Bonner’s designs are celebrated for merging sportswear elements with classic men’s fashion, creating timeless pieces that resonate with a modern sensibility.

    A Trailblazer’s Journey and Accolades

    A graduate of the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, Wales Bonner has consistently pushed creative boundaries. Her previous accolades include the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund in 2019 and the CFDA International Men’s Designer Of the Year award two years later. She has also had the honor of dressing high-profile celebrities such as F1 driver Lewis Hamilton and artist FKA Twigs.

    Her significant contributions to the fashion world have even earned her an MBE (Most Excellent Order of the British Empire), a testament to her influence and impact.

    Shaping the Future of Hermès Menswear

    Pierre-Alexis Dumas, General Artistic Director of Hermès, expressed his enthusiasm for Wales Bonner’s addition to the brand’s legacy. He believes her perspective on contemporary fashion, craftsmanship, and culture will be instrumental in shaping Hermès’ men’s style, creating a confident look that melds heritage with the present. “Grace’s appetite and curiosity for artistic practice strongly resonate with Hermès’s creative mindset and approach,” Dumas noted.

    Wales Bonner will succeed Véronique Nichanian, who held the title of Menswear Creative Director for an impressive 37 years. Her inaugural collection for Hermès is slated to debut in 2027, marking the beginning of an exciting new era for the iconic fashion house.

    What are your thoughts on Grace Wales Bonner’s historic appointment at Hermès? Are you excited to see her vision for the menswear line? Share your opinions in the comments below!

  • Indie Designers Shine at RAISEfashion NYFW Event

    In the heart of New York Fashion Week, a powerful showcase highlighted the resilience and talent of emerging designers of color. RAISEfashion, alongside Business of Fashion (BoF) and Fluency AI, hosted an intentional, one-day event that provided a much-needed platform for these creatives amidst industry challenges.

    Community and Commerce Under One Roof

    Held at Posh VIP in Manhattan, the event offered a vibrant atmosphere where New Yorkers and fashion enthusiasts could connect directly with designers. This shoppable format allowed attendees to engage with the creators and their work in a personal way, a crucial element for designers seeking to build their customer base.

    Felita Harris, the founder of RAISEfashion, emphasized the organization’s mission since its 2020 inception: to platform and support emerging designers of color. In a climate where tariffs loom and the fashion industry faces constant shifts, this showcase felt particularly timely and necessary.

    RAISEfashion’s Impact on Designer Growth

    The impact of RAISEfashion is evident in the success stories of its designers. Rachel Scott of Diotima, who was recently appointed Creative Director of Proenza Schouler, is a prime example of the organization’s influence. RAISEfashion provides vital support, including consulting, financial assistance, and introductions to key industry figures.

    Harris shared her pride in seeing 16 designers remain in business after five years, attributing it to the organization’s dedicated work and accountability to its mission. She noted the designers’ commitment to scaling their businesses, even amidst political uncertainties.

    Designer Testimonials: Real Support, Real Growth

    Emerging designers like Bach Mai, known for his Vietnamese roots and work with John Galliano, praised RAISEfashion for its authenticity. “We got real support [and] real mentorship sessions,” Mai stated, highlighting the essential guidance for young designers. His brand has already been worn by celebrities like Megan Thee Stallion and Ashley Graham.

    Kanyinsola Onalaja, a Nigerian designer, credits RAISEfashion with helping her break into the American market. The grants and retailer relationships offered by the organization have been instrumental in her success. Similarly, Charles Harbison, whose designs have graced stars like Tina Knowles, emphasized Felita Harris’s integral role in connecting him with key industry contacts, calling it an “amazing support system.”

    Keith Herron of Advisry echoed these sentiments, expressing that he hasn’t felt championed in his career the way RAISEfashion and Harris have supported him. He values being part of a community that genuinely recognizes his presence and creative talent.

    What do you think about the work RAISEfashion is doing to support emerging designers? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

  • Black Fashion Fair Launches Inaugural Symposium

    Get ready for New York Fashion Week with a powerful new initiative! Black Fashion Fair has launched its very first symposium, dedicated to shining a spotlight on the incredible talent and contributions of Black creatives in the fashion and beauty industries. This one-day event, held on September 6th, aimed to unite, support, and amplify the voices of designers, photographers, beauty leaders, and more, in a space where they’ve historically been underrepresented.

    Building a Foundation for the Future

    Black Fashion Fair Founder Antoine Gregory articulated the core mission: “Black Fashion Fair exists because Black fashion has always deserved more: more visibility, more access, more investment, more ownership. We are not just observers of Black fashion. We are building a foundation that will sustain generations to come.” The symposium served as a powerful extension of this vital work.

    A recurring theme throughout the day was the immense power of community and collaboration. Creatives shared how mutual support from fellow Black fashion professionals has been instrumental in their journeys. Photographer Donté Maurice, part of the duo AB+DM, highlighted this synergy: “Collaboration is something that’s important to us, because we’re two people working together as one unit.”

    Lessons from Industry Leaders

    The symposium also delved into pressing industry issues. The impact of economic challenges, including Trump-era tariffs, was a significant topic. Beauty influencer Danessa Myricks spoke candidly about how tariffs cost her millions, emphasizing the precarious nature of running a business: “You could be doing extremely well and be out of business in the next week.”

    Another insightful panel brought together fashion heavyweights like Edvin Thompson (Theophilio), Jacques Agbobly (Agbobly), and Tia Adeola to discuss the intersection of fashion, politics, and activism. They explored how their identities as Black designers influence their work, with Thompson noting, “We’re actually activists even when there’s not necessarily a call to action for us. Because we wake up Black every day.” Agbobly added that while their stories might reflect broader political themes, their primary focus is on telling their own narratives.

    Amplifying Voices and Impact

    The event featured a host of other influential Black fashion leaders, including luxury accessories designer Brandon Blackwood, Tomi Talabi (founder of the Black Beauty Club), Sofia Maame Thompson (PR director of Buttah Skin), and makeup artist Keita Moore. Their presence underscored the symposium’s commitment to showcasing a wide spectrum of talent.

    While Antoine Gregory hasn’t yet confirmed if the symposium will become an annual fixture kicking off New York Fashion Week, this inaugural event has undoubtedly made a powerful statement. It signifies a crucial step forward in ensuring Black creatives receive the recognition, access, and investment they profoundly deserve.

    What are your thoughts on the importance of events like the Black Fashion Fair symposium? Share your perspective in the comments below!

  • Black Fashion Fair Symposium Celebrates Genius

    Get ready, because Black fashion is here to stay and Black Fashion Fair (BFF) is making sure everyone knows it! Their recent debut symposium, ‘Black Fashion Forward,’ wasn’t just an event; it was a powerful declaration of talent, community, and the enduring genius within the Black fashion and beauty industries.

    A Gathering of Black Excellence

    Hosted by BFF founder Antoine Gregory just before New York Fashion Week, this symposium drew Black fashion and beauty creatives from all over the country. It was a vibrant space designed to celebrate and connect, and it certainly delivered. In a time when the fashion industry is facing economic headwinds, this event offered a much-needed dose of optimism and solidarity.

    Gregory kicked off the afternoon by emphasizing BFF’s mission: ‘Black fashion has always deserved more: more visibility, more access, more investment, more ownership,’ he declared. He stressed that BFF isn’t just observing Black fashion; it’s actively building a sustainable foundation for future generations.

    Visual Languages, Collaboration, and Self-Belief

    The event kicked off with a fascinating panel on visual languages and Black representation in fashion media. Photographer duo AB+DM (Ahmad Barber and Donté Maurice), makeup artist Keita Moore, and editorial director Irene Ojo-Felix discussed their work, including capturing Iman for Harper’s Bazaar. They highlighted the power of collaboration, emphasizing how involving makeup artists in the post-production process enriches their visual storytelling.

    The duo also shared how mentors like Zendaya and Law Roach taught them the importance of ‘paying it forward’ and proper advocacy. Moore added a crucial piece of advice for aspiring creatives: ‘you have to be a little delusional’ – that unwavering self-belief is key to navigating the industry.

    Navigating Finances and Building Brands

    Later, esthetician Sean Garrette moderated a discussion with beauty leaders Danessa Myricks (Danessa Myricks Beauty), Tomi Talabi (Black Beauty Club), and Sofia Maame Thompson (Buttah Skin). The conversation turned poignant when discussing finances, especially following the news of Ami Colé’s closure. Myricks shared the immense challenges of self-funded growth, noting how external factors like tariffs can create sudden, massive financial pressures.

    • The critical need for customer support in sustaining businesses.
    • The importance of securing investment to build long-term wealth.
    • Navigating unexpected financial hurdles in the industry.

    Fashion as Activism and Cultural Force

    The energy continued with a panel featuring New York powerhouses like Kia D. Goosby (Vanity Fair), Edvin Thompson (Theophilio), Jacques Agbobly (Agbobly), and Tia Adeola. When asked about fashion’s intersection with politics and activism, the panelists offered thoughtful perspectives. Thompson noted that simply existing as Black individuals makes them activists, while Agbobly cautioned against being pigeonholed, stating his aim is to tell his own story, with any political undertones being a byproduct.

    Scaling Success and Embracing Grace

    The final conversation featured luxury accessories designer Brandon Blackwood in discussion with Antoine Gregory. Blackwood, known for scaling his handbag empire and designing for stars like Beyoncé, echoed the need for ‘delusional’ self-belief. He candidly shared behind-the-scenes stories of brand growth, including navigating Twitter backlash and scaling operations.

    Gregory pointed out that Black brands often aren’t afforded the same grace as others when facing challenges. Blackwood also revealed his current focus on investing time in home and furniture design, even sharing that a hotel has commissioned him for furniture design. While his accessories brand is thriving, this new venture is proving personally fulfilling.

    A Day of Connection and Celebration

    Throughout the day, hosts Shelcy and Christy Joseph expertly guided attendees between panels. The symposium also included moments for fun and connection, like a flower-embellished water station by Maison Perrier, custom airbrushed Champion T-shirts as keepsakes, and a lively cocktail reception featuring Crown Royal cocktails.

    While details for the next symposium are still under wraps, the success of this inaugural event strongly suggests that 2026 will be another must-attend gathering for anyone passionate about Black excellence in fashion.

    What were your favorite moments or takeaways from the Black Fashion Fair symposium? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

  • Podcast’s $55K Assistant Gig Sparks Outrage

    A recent job posting from the popular podcast “The Cutting Room Floor” has ignited a firestorm online, with many calling out the seemingly low pay and high expectations for the advertised position. The podcast, known for its insights into the fashion industry and led by Recho Omondi, is facing backlash for offering a New York City-based assistant role with a salary of $55,000 annually and no benefits.

    Unrealistic Expectations for Entry-Level Pay

    The role, described as an “Office Coordinator,” was initially posted and detailed a wide range of responsibilities. Beyond typical office management, the hired individual would also serve as a personal assistant to Omondi, combining duties of a bookings administrator and studio coordinator. While the position offers inside access to an emerging platform, the $55,000 salary, especially after New York taxes, has been widely criticized as insufficient for the demands and cost of living in the city.

    The job requires in-person hours from 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., further adding to the perceived imbalance between compensation and workload. Social media users expressed shock and disappointment, with many noting that the fashion industry can already be inaccessible for people of color and those from less affluent backgrounds.

    Podcast Host Defends Wages, Then Pauses Hiring

    In response to the immediate pushback, Omondi defended the salary, stating it’s intended for someone “ready to hustle” and acknowledging that “you can’t be living lavishly” on that wage. She emphasized that the role is for individuals seeking to build their careers in New York during their early stages. However, these explanations did little to quell the criticism, with some listeners even vowing to stop tuning into the podcast due to what they perceived as a tone-deaf approach.

    Amidst the growing controversy, Omondi announced via Patreon that “The Cutting Room Floor” will be freezing the hiring process for the position. This decision comes after significant online debate about fair compensation, industry accessibility, and the responsibilities expected of entry-level employees.

    What are your thoughts on the controversy surrounding “The Cutting Room Floor’s” assistant job posting? Do you think the salary was fair for the role and location? Share your opinions in the comments below!

  • Elizabeth Elohor: Building Beth Model Africa

    Elizabeth Elohor is a name synonymous with the growth and shaping of Africa’s fashion landscape. As the visionary behind Beth Model Management, often hailed as one of the continent’s largest modeling agencies, Elohor’s journey from pageant queen to fashion power broker is an inspiring testament to resilience and entrepreneurial spirit.

    From Pageantry to Fashion Entrepreneurship

    Elohor’s foray into the fashion world began in her early twenties while pursuing a degree in Business and Information Technology in London. Encouraged by her boss and mother to participate in a pageant, she overcame initial shyness and anxiety to compete, ultimately winning Miss Nigeria UK in 2001/2002. While she reflects that pageantry itself isn’t the direct cause of her success, it was instrumental in building her confidence and communication skills.

    Born in London and raised in Nigeria from the age of two, Elohor was influenced by her mother, an elegant woman who worked at the Nigerian Television Authority and had a passion for fashion. Surrounded by fashion magazines and inspired by her mother’s style, Elohor’s interest in the industry grew. After her pageant win, she returned to Nigeria, seeking modeling opportunities. However, she quickly discovered a significant gap in the market: the absence of modeling agencies that could represent aspiring models like herself, especially those facing height limitations in the UK.

    The Birth of Beth Model Africa

    This void in the industry became the catalyst for the creation of Beth Model Africa. In its nascent stages, Elohor admits she was learning as she went, driven by a dream to see her models grace the covers of fashion magazines both locally and internationally. Her initial realization about the difference between fashion models and pageant queens came during her first photoshoot, where she observed the distinct fluidity and intentionality required for fashion modeling compared to pageant presentation.

    The early days of Beth Model Africa were marked by challenges, particularly the lack of understanding and trust surrounding modeling agencies in Nigeria. Elohor recounts the difficulty in getting models to sign contracts, a stark contrast to the celebratory culture in Europe. She also faced models quitting after short periods and clients preferring to bypass the agency altogether. Despite these hurdles, by 2007, Elohor began forging partnerships with top international agencies, including Elite Model Management.

    Cultivating International Success

    Bringing the ‘Elite Model Look’ franchise to Nigeria was a pivotal move. Over 13 years of collaboration with Elite, Elohor helped launch the careers of numerous international models, most notably Mayowa Nicholas. Discovered by a Beth model booker on her way to a salon, Nicholas went on to win the 2014 Nigerian Elite Model Look and became a top finalist globally. Her subsequent career has seen her grace the covers of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, ELLE, and walk for major brands like Versace, Balmain, and Victoria’s Secret.

    • Elizabeth Elohor founded Beth Model Africa, a leading modeling agency.
    • Her journey began with winning Miss Nigeria UK.
    • She identified a gap in the Nigerian modeling industry.
    • Beth Model Africa partnered with international agencies like Elite.
    • She discovered and launched the career of top model Mayowa Nicholas.

    Seeing her clients achieve international success brings Elohor immense pride, likening it to a mother watching her child grow. She is also delighted by the growth of the modeling industry in Africa, with more local agencies emerging and a stronger representation of African talent on global runways. Elohor’s commitment extends to nurturing the local fashion market, leading her to establish Future Face Global four years ago. This competition scouts talent across the continent, working with over 30 modeling agencies and providing more opportunities for aspiring models within Africa.

    With over two decades of leadership and a roster of more than 200 models across Africa, Elizabeth Elohor remains dedicated to building her clientele and fostering relationships within the industry. She is grateful for the platform she has created to help young people realize their potential and pursue their dreams, with aspirations to further expand the reach of Future Face Global and Beth Model Africa.

    What inspires you most about Elizabeth Elohor’s journey? Share your thoughts on the growth of African fashion in the comments below!

  • Fashion’s Neglect of Black Hair Exposed

    The modeling industry, often criticized for its exclusivity, continues to present challenges for Black models, particularly concerning hair care. Even when Black models secure opportunities on major runways and in top editorial shoots, they frequently face microaggressions and neglect from backstage beauty teams who are unprepared or unwilling to work with textured hair. This systemic issue forces many Black models to arrive with their hair pre-styled, alter their natural texture, or even cut their hair to fit a narrow industry standard.

    Models Speak Out Against Industry Neglect

    Actor and model Nick Joesten, along with fashion model Angëër Amol, are bringing attention to this issue through a popular TikTok series. Joesten, with over a decade of experience, noted the common practice of asking darker-toned models to cut their hair short to be considered ‘bookable.’ “It was almost as if we needed a certain look to be considered ‘bookable,’” Joesten shared. “Once I realized I had a platform, I teamed up with my good friend and fellow model Angëër to start a conversation we felt was long overdue.”

    Amol recounted her own experience: “When I first came into the industry, I had locs. When I signed to my agency, they told me I needed to cut my hair. I wasn’t comfortable with it—it took me five years to grow out my locs.” She further detailed a four-hour styling session for a Valentino show where stylists struggled to achieve a simple braided look with her microlocs, highlighting how textured hair is often viewed as a challenge rather than a versatile art form.

    The Double Standard of Beauty

    This “othering” of textured hair reveals itself in subtle and overt ways, often making Black models feel like an inconvenience. Many are expected to style their own hair while their non-Black counterparts receive full glam services. When their hair needs aren’t met as a standard practice, it sends a clear message that their beauty is not a priority. “It says that our hair in its natural state is not welcome and doesn’t fit the mold,” Joesten explained. “It tells aspiring Black models that they’ll need to change one of the most integral parts of themselves just to be accepted in this industry.”

    The industry often imposes a double standard: once Black models adopt a certain look deemed “bookable,” they are expected to maintain it. Unlike non-Black models, whose hair transformations are often celebrated, Black models face skepticism or silence when they wish to change their style. Amol shared that after cutting her hair significantly shorter than her agents expected, she didn’t book a job for over a year and a half.

    The Need for Education and Intention

    This systemic issue points to a glaring lack of Black hairstylists and stylists adequately trained in textured hair care within the industry. Joesten notes, “Over the last ten years, I can count on one hand how many Black hairstylists I’ve worked with. The biggest issue is that Eurocentric hair is still treated as the default factory setting. So many stylists haven’t been taught how to work with textured hair because they’ve never had to.”

    While talented Black hairstylists like Naeemah LaFond, Jawara, Vernon François, and Ursula Stephen are elevating textured hair, their presence should be the norm, not the exception. The industry needs to prioritize education on textured hair as a baseline standard. Until then, Black models are unfairly pressured to compromise their identity, comfort, or hair for career advancement. “Textured hair isn’t difficult. It’s just intentionally misunderstood,” Amol stated. “If a stylist thinks textured hair is difficult, then they’re just being lazy in their artistry.”

    Meaningful change, according to Joesten, involves “Black people being included in all aspects of the industry—From stylists understanding the texture of our hair, to agents and brands actively advocating for us. We need a seat at the table—not just a foot in the door.”

    What changes do you think are most needed to improve the treatment of Black hair in the fashion industry? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

  • Ssense Faces Forced Sale Amid Financial Woes

    The high-end fashion world is reeling from the news that Ssense, a prominent Canadian luxury e-commerce retailer, has been placed into bankruptcy protection against its will. The Montreal-based company is now engaged in a difficult battle for survival as its main lender seeks a forced sale under Canadian insolvency laws, highlighting the severe pressures facing luxury brands today.

    A Hostile Move by the Primary Lender

    Ssense’s lender initiated bankruptcy protection proceedings under Canada’s Companies’ Creditors Arrangement Act (CCAA). This aggressive action bypasses the company’s leadership, aiming to recover assets quickly. Ssense executives have strongly opposed this move, deeming it premature and detrimental to the company’s long-term viability. They view months of negotiations as having been unproductive and plan to file their own CCAA application as a defensive measure to regain control and protect employee interests.

    This legal maneuvering creates significant uncertainty for Ssense’s future, raising questions about whether management can successfully counter the lender’s aggressive tactics and secure more favorable restructuring terms.

    Impact of Trade Policy and Market Slowdown

    The company’s financial difficulties are partly attributed to significant changes in U.S. trade policies, specifically the elimination of the de minimis exemption. This change has imposed substantial new costs on cross-border e-commerce, impacting retailers like Ssense that rely on international sales from their Canadian base. Evolving trade relationships and tariff disturbances have added complexity and expense to global commerce.

    Compounding these issues is a broader slowdown in the luxury market. Ssense has reportedly experienced consistent double-digit sales decreases, reflecting shifts in consumer spending patterns and evolving luxury market dynamics. Economic uncertainty has made consumers more cautious with discretionary spending, directly affecting premium fashion retailers.

    Cost-Cutting Measures and Industry Consolidation

    In response to declining cash flow, Ssense implemented significant cost-cutting measures earlier this year, including workforce reductions affecting eight percent of its staff. These measures also included cuts to parental leave benefits and frozen bonus payments, indicating the severity of the financial challenges. These actions underscore the pressure to reduce operational expenses rapidly.

    Ssense’s situation occurs amidst a period of intense consolidation within the luxury retail sector. Recent years have seen the closure of Matches, Farfetch’s acquisition by Coupang, and Luisaviaroma filing for court protection. This trend suggests a significant shift in the luxury fashion retail landscape, with larger, better-capitalized competitors gaining an advantage over smaller, independent players.

    What are your thoughts on the challenges facing luxury retailers like Ssense? Do you think the company can recover from these financial difficulties? Share your opinions in the comments below!