Vogue is once again under fire, this time for rebranding the iconic afro as a ‘cloud bob.’ The fashion publication recently featured Tracee Ellis Ross’s signature fro in a list of summer haircuts under this new moniker, sparking immediate outrage and accusations of blatant cultural appropriation.
Erasure of Black Identity and History
The decision to rename a hairstyle deeply rooted in Black culture and history has been met with widespread frustration. For Black women, the afro is more than just a hairstyle; it’s a symbol of identity, pride, and resistance. The idea that it needs a new, rebranded name, especially one credited to a celebrity stylist rather than acknowledging its origins, feels like a deliberate erasure.
Social media platforms like Threads, X, and TikTok exploded with criticism. Many pointed out that styles like cornrows have previously been rebranded as ‘boxer braids,’ further highlighting a pattern of appropriation. The backlash was so intense that Vogue reportedly removed the ‘cloud bob’ from its list shortly after its publication, though the implication and the initial misstep remain.
The Need for Acknowledgment, Not Rebranding
The article highlights that styles like french rolls, rope twists, microbraids, and top knots are already established. The afro, with its rich history and cultural significance, doesn’t need to be reinvented. Instead, publications like Vogue should acknowledge its legacy, as exemplified by icons like Diana Ross, Angela Bassett, and Colin Kaepernick, who have proudly worn afros.
The piece criticizes the ‘colonial energy’ that seems to persist, where contributions from Black culture are ignored or rebranded to fit a more palatable narrative for a mainstream audience. While not every style piece needs a history lesson, a sentence or two acknowledging the roots of a style can make a significant difference in preventing erasure.
A Pattern of Insensitivity
This isn’t an isolated incident for Vogue. The publication has faced similar accusations of cultural appropriation in the past, including rebranding afro-inspired images as ‘Gibson Girl’ in 2018 and decentering plus-size bodies in a ‘Hairspray’-inspired video. Critics argue that this insensitivity is not a mistake but is ‘built in.’
The burden of prestige placed on institutions like Vogue means they have a significant influence on societal perceptions. When they rebrand cultural staples, it can overshadow the original context and voices. In an era where AI is increasingly used for information gathering, the authority Vogue holds makes such missteps particularly dangerous, potentially leading to the marginalization of Black beauty standards.
The Importance of Representation
The recent news of Teen Vogue’s downsizing further amplifies the concern. The absence of diverse voices within these publications can lead to insensitive content and the rebranding of Black cultural elements. This is how styles seen on the streets for generations get rebranded as new trends, simplifying erasure for those who don’t seek a broader perspective.
What are your thoughts on Vogue’s ‘cloud bob’ controversy? How important is it for major publications to accurately represent and credit cultural origins? Share your views in the comments below!
