For Jamaican chefs Suzanne and Michelle Rousseau, food is more than just sustenance; it’s a deeply ingrained part of their heritage. From childhood memories of mixing Christmas pudding to hosting dinner parties and eventually opening their first café, the sisters have dedicated their lives to the culinary arts, breaking norms and redefining perceptions of Jamaican food.
A Culinary Journey Rooted in Family and Passion
With a family history steeped in cooking, including their great-grandmother who owned Kingston’s Royal Café in the 1920s, it seemed destined that Suzanne and Michelle would enter the culinary field. Although they initially had no intention of pursuing it professionally, their mother’s suggestion led them to open Café Bella in 1996. This European-style café in Kingston offered a unique dining experience with pastas, salads, bruschetta, and jazz music, setting them apart from the norm.
Over the past 30 years, their mission has been clear: “to elevate Jamaican cuisine and how it is perceived outside this country — for it to be seen in a bigger way.” They emphasize that jerk is a cooking method, not just a seasoning, and that Jamaica’s food culture is far richer and more diverse than often portrayed.
Bespoke Experiences and Culinary Successes
Their latest venture, “Two Sisters,” launched this summer, offering bespoke experiences at the historic Rockfield estate. These include cooking and mixology classes, guided nature walks with traditional Jamaican breakfasts, alfresco dining featuring rural Jamaican cuisine cooked over a live fire on a 300-year-old pimento BBQ, and explorations of jerk cooking techniques.
The culinary stars’ impressive successes also include acclaimed restaurants, boutiques, and award-winning cookbooks like “Caribbean Potluck” and “Provisions: The Roots of Caribbean Cooking.” They even produced and starred in the TV series “Two Sisters and a Meal.” Their experience spans events for crowds of 5,000 and prestigious fêtes, such as the official dinner honoring Prince Charles in 2008.
Overcoming Challenges and Defining Their Style
The sisters faced numerous challenges, particularly as young women in the food service industry in Jamaica during the early 90s. Issues like power outages, water shortages, the cost of generators, and transportation for employees were common. Starting their business with debt, they taught themselves accounting and developed their own business standards and methods.
Michelle noted the division in the food service space, with some looking down on them for pursuing a culinary career after university. “Some people looked down on us, couldn’t understand why after going to university we would go into the food space,” she explained. “We were going against the grain.” Their parents’ encouragement, however, helped them overcome naysayers. Now recognized as “style makers,” they are known for delivering classy, elegant events that celebrate Caribbean culture by elevating simple, local fare with layers of flavor, fresh herbs, and vinegar.
A Recipe for Success
Michelle’s passion for cooking over a fire is described as a “past life thing,” highlighting her intuitive connection to the culinary process. She emphasizes simplicity, preferring dishes that take a few steps rather than being overly fancy. Suzanne excels as the salad and sauce guru, specializing in creating elegant table settings with flowers and antiques, ensuring a joyful atmosphere where memories are made.
Their “Two Sisters” experience, a project three years in the making and supported by a grant, aims to showcase a side of Jamaica beyond the typical tourist experience. Through food, they want to offer “elevated country hospitality” and share a more authentic story of Jamaica.
Grilled Chicken With Spicy West Indian Salsa Verde Recipe
- **For the Chicken:** Marinate 4 pounds of mixed chicken parts in a blend of olive oil, scallions, garlic, ginger, thyme, cilantro, Scotch Bonnet pepper, lime juice, salt, and pepper for at least 12 hours or overnight.
- **For the Salsa Verde:** Blend parsley, chadon beni (or cilantro), garlic, scallions, thyme, olive oil, water, lime juice, lime zest, Scotch Bonnet pepper (seeds removed), salt, and ginger until smooth.
- **Grilling:** Preheat grill or grill pan to medium-high heat. Grill chicken for about 10 minutes per side until charred.
- **Finishing:** Transfer chicken to a baking dish, toss with some Salsa Verde (reserving the rest for garnish), and bake at 350°F for 10-15 minutes until cooked through (165°F internal temperature). Serve drizzled with remaining Salsa Verde.
What Jamaican dish would you love to see the Rousseau Sisters elevate? Share your culinary dreams in the comments below!
