Before André Leon Talley became a household name in fashion – a critic, journalist, and longtime Vogue force – there was no established path for someone like him. He forged his own way, rising from Durham, North Carolina, to the glittering fashion capitals of New York City and Paris. Talley’s magnetic passion for clothing, his deep connections with designers, and his unforgettable persona captivated everyone he encountered. Now, the Savannah College of Art & Design (SCAD) is honoring his enduring legacy with a remarkable exhibition.
A Glimpse into Talley’s World: ‘Style Is Forever’
Fittingly, SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film’s latest exhibition, ‘André Leon Talley: Style Is Forever,’ masterfully showcases the incredible creations that Talley himself wore. The collection features designs from legendary houses like Dapper Dan, Chanel (under Karl Lagerfeld), Tom Ford, Yves Saint Laurent, Ralph Lauren, and Vivienne Westwood, among many others. Walking through the Atlanta gallery feels like stepping directly into Talley’s brilliant mind.
The exhibition boasts an impressive 75 ensembles and personal treasures, each reflecting Talley’s inimitable grandeur. SCAD President and Founder Paula Wallace described his wardrobe as both a sanctuary and a sermon, noting his understanding of fashion’s power to uplift and proclaim identity. Visitors can witness how Talley, a man deeply rooted in his faith, used fashion as a powerful form of self-expression.
Curating Cultural Moments
Wallace also highlighted Talley’s role in shaping cultural moments through magazine pages and covers, anointing designers whose work would go on to leave a lasting imprint on the world. The exhibit pays special tribute to his first haute couture experience – Yves Saint Laurent’s 1978 show – which sparked a lifelong friendship with the designer. This relationship is represented through two exquisite caftans designed by Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent.
Another standout piece is a Gucci X Dapper Dan reversible gold brocade caftan. This ensemble, worn by Talley to the premiere of his film ‘The Gospel According to Andre,’ exemplifies his keen eye and appreciation for Black designers like Dapper Dan, whom Talley felt was finally receiving the respect he deserved from the fashion industry.
More Than Just Aesthetics
‘André Leon Talley: Style Is Forever’ goes beyond visual stimulation. The gallery space is enriched with sound bites of Talley himself, greeting visitors and sharing his insights. Custom mannequins, sculpted by SCAD alumna Stephen Hayes in Talley’s likeness, add a personal touch, making it feel as though the fashion icon is present, observing each guest.
The exhibition feels like a journey through a time capsule, where Talley’s glamorous sensibilities and larger-than-life persona shine through. A wall dedicated to ephemera from his home in White Plains, New York, offers an even more intimate connection to his life.
A Curator’s Deep Connection
Exhibition curator and creative director André Gomes shared his personal connection with Talley, recalling their meeting in Marrakesh in 2014. Gomes, a self-proclaimed “fashion nerd,” was immediately drawn to Talley’s encyclopedic knowledge. Their relationship blossomed, leading to collaborations like the 2015 exhibit ‘Dress Up Story—1990 Until Now,’ focusing on Vivienne Westwood’s designs. Gomes credits Talley for influencing his own career path at SCAD.
The process of gathering key pieces for the exhibition began roughly six months after Talley’s passing in 2022. Conversations about a dedicated exhibit had been ongoing since pre-COVID. SCAD utilized numerous items from Talley’s home, including boxes of clothing and archival materials like photographs, to bring ‘André Leon Talley: Style Is Forever’ to life.
A Blueprint for Resilience and Representation
Gomes emphasized that the exhibition aims to showcase Talley’s incredible journey from his humble beginnings in the Jim Crow South, raised by his grandmother Bennie Frances Davis. He hopes visitors recognize Talley as a hero who fought against systematic racism and homophobia, opening doors for countless others in the fashion industry. “He’s a figure that has guided my career,” shared Antoine Gregory, founder of Black Fashion Fair and a key curator for the exhibition. “He’s someone who has shown all of us that there are infinite possibilities if you believe in yourself, you are passionate about the work that you’re doing, and that you stay knowledgeable.”
Gregory, who authored the exhibition’s accompanying catalogue, views himself as an “archivist” and “historian.” He intentionally designed the exhibition to feel accessible, particularly to Black and brown visitors, creating a space that feels like “home” – a stark contrast to institutions that have historically not been safe spaces for Black people. The meticulous placement of each item, from eloquent caftans to chic suiting, alongside photographs and heartfelt quotes, guides visitors on an unforgettable journey through Talley’s most cherished possessions and his profound impact on fashion and culture.
What aspect of André Leon Talley’s legacy resonates most with you? Share your thoughts on the ‘Style Is Forever’ exhibition in the comments below!